In Rhythm with Hilltop - Training - Sporthorse

A: You need to read about problem behaviors and the recommendations from trainers such as John Lyons. Some suggested books are: "Horses Behavin' Badly" by McCall and "Lyons on Horses" by John Lyons. You can read a review on these books in our Equerry Bookstore and then purchase them from Amazon Press.

Q: Could you please explain the proper way to execute a simple change of lead vs. a change of lead through trot. How many trot steps are acceptable in the change of lead through the trot?

A: A simple change of lead is a transition from canter to walk with 3-4 steps of walk before picking up the new canter lead. The change of lead through trot is a transition from canter to trot, 3-4 steps of trot then picking up the new canter lead. To execute these changes you must be able to easily make the upward and downward transitions on each side before changing from one side to another. This means you must be able to keep the horse properly straight and balanced and responsive to the aids. When you can do this you are ready to make the transition from one side to the other. This means that after you make the transition from canter to trot, or walk, you are easily able to change bend and rebalance for the new lead. Do this by taking your time to rebalance in the walk or trot - at the beginning you do not need to make the new transition in 3-4 strides. Take the time you need to make sure you get a correct transition, then gradually shorten the amount of steps in between.

Q: I have a lovely 4 year old Holsteiner/Thoroughbred gelding that has been in dressage training for 6-8 months (3-4 days/week) with an experienced trainer. He is hacked out at least once weekly. Lately, my trainer has been unable to ride (pregnancy) and I have been doing all the schooling under her direction. Training has progressed nicely until the past few sessions when my horse has started hanging his tongue out of the left side of his mouth between the bars and grinding his teeth loudly. I'm using a loose ring hollow mouth snaffle but have also tried the KK-no difference. The teeth are OK and he does not seem to be sore anywhere. Does he need a mental break?

A: It is hard to say without having seen your horse or the training program. It is good that you have checked the teeth, you may also ask the vet or horse dentist if his teeth could be growing or his mouth undergoing other changes. We have seen this happen with young horses. He could also be going through another type of growing stage. It is common that when this happens the horse's behavior changes. We tend to back off rather than creating a problem. If it is a growing stage, they can feel more comfortable even in a couple of weeks. Again, it is sometimes difficult to know and you may have to experiment. At the least, a mental break won't hurt. After giving him the benefit of the doubt, you can start fresh.

Q: Could you please offer assistance on how to deal with a young horse whose attention is lost when lunging? I need to know how to avoid bolting, kicking, running in, or continued stopping.

A: You can start by making the circle smaller and larger and doing many transitions. Carry a long whip and stay at his shoulder. Change direction, break things up so he is always wondering what you are going to ask of him next. Turnout often helps energy too.

Q: My Arab tosses his head and seems unwilling to maintain a trot, how do I know if it is me doing something wrong or if he is in pain?

A: If you are concerned that he is in pain, have your veterinarian check for problems. There may be some type of lameness or discomfort resulting from many possible factors. I would also check that the saddle or bridle is not bothering the horse and check that there are no problems with his teeth.

There is also the possibility that it is a training issue. You may need to have someone check that you are giving the correct leg aids to maintain the trot, and giving the proper rein aids to encourage an even soft contact. You will want to check that you are not tight or holding in your body as well. With some consistency, these types of problems can usually be worked out fairly easily.

Q: I show my pony in ridden show classes but the problem is when she stands still she shakes her head up and down. What can I do to stop this? At the last show she head butted the judge. I have tried leaving the reins loose, keeping them tight...I don't know what else to do.

A: Start by teaching your pony to stand quietly for short periods. Keep an even contact on both reins - not too tight and not too loose. When she shakes her head, close your fingers, so she cannot pull the reins. You may even need to close your arms right next to your side so she cannot pull them forward. (It helps to think of keeping your elbows attached to your hips.) When she stops pulling, reward her by relaxing your arms again and going back to that soft even contact. If she is good even for a little bit, stop with that the first day, you can increase the time you stand gradually. You will need to repeat doing this often because she will start by being good for only a few seconds. If you are consistent, she will eventually learn to stand with her head still. You need to be patient and persistent though, because she will try over and over again to shake her head.

Q: My dressage horse's neck breaks over at the third vertebrae and he does not engage his hindquarters. When we try to remedy this by letting him stretch down, he really gets strung out. Do we try to strengthen hindquarters first or what?

A: It is a good idea to do things which will strengthen his hindquarters, such as conditioning on hills. When you are working on letting him stretch, you will want to ask him to work correctly behind. Ask him with your seat and leg (have a professional watch to make sure you are doing this correctly) to push off with his hindquarters. You want to feel that he is moving with energy from back to front and that he wants to move forward into your hand (which is allowing and guiding him to stretch). If he gets strung out, you may also try transitions between the gaits.

Q: I have a 10 year old Hanoverian cross gelding that I have been showing at training level this year. I use a Dr. Bristol. I get similar comments from different judges that he is not stretching entire top line at the free walk and during the trot, letting the horse gradually take the reins out of your hands movement. He also has a tendency to be behind the vertical at trot and canter. This does not do much for our scores. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

A: It sounds like your horse needs to move more correctly from the leg and learn to trust and move with proper energy into the hand. Without seeing what is happening, it is hard to say exactly what to do. Some things to think about might be to make sure he is answering your leg consistently to go forward, check that your hands and arms are soft and following - that you are not constricting him in any way and try using several large figures and changes of direction where he must change bend which will help to supple him if the cause is a tight back. It might be most helpful to have a professional watch since every horse and circumstance is different.

Q: My two year old quarter horse's trot is choppy. What suggestions can you give me to help him develop an extended trot?

A: Since your horse is only 2, it would be most important to focus on building his strength and balance. It can be very helpful to condition your horse outside. If you are in a hilly area, walking your horse on hills is an especially good way to build the strength in his hind end. This strength will help him in developing his trot. It is important to increase this work gradually.

While you are riding outside, if you have the opportunity to trot through tall grass, this can also give your horse the idea of making longer, more suspended strides. This can be done trotting over ground poles as well.

If you are able to find a dressage instructor near you, he/she would be able to give you exercises which will supple your horse. More suppleness will help your horse to develop a more extended stride. Once your horse is a little older, there are more exercises which you can use in developing an extended trot.

Q: I want to show my pony in riding classes, but every time I ride him, he is always stretching down so that his nose is skimming over the ground. I understand that this is good for their back and that I should encourage it, but every time he lifts his head back up, and I take the reins back into a light contact, he always goes overbent. I push him on when he does this and give him back the reins, but he always goes back to stretching down. This happens in walk, trot, and canter. He is not heavy in my hands and he is ridden in a simple snaffle bit and bridle. I am a capable rider and have ridden for over 10 years. He was ridden in a French gag on the bit before I got him. I want to collect him into a rounded outline but to do this I have to have a contact on the reins, and when I try, he always avoids the contact and goes overbent and behind the vertical. How can I stop him from doing this? Is there anything wrong with my riding or the bridle that I am using?

A: You are doing the right thing by pushing him on when he goes behind the bit. It is also very good that he wants to stretch down. It sounds as if he needs to learn to trust and accept the contact. It is good that you are riding in a simple snaffle. It is possible that he became backed off from the French gag. Since he seems comfortable stretching I would start asking him to move into the contact in this position. As he stretches push him on gently into your hand. Do not take back or do not let him run through the bridle either. It takes good timing with your legs, seat and hand to move him on, then close your fingers so he does not pull through, then immediately lighten your hand so he trusts the contact. He also must stay in the same pace - not too fast or too slow - the pace you decide. You can make several figures in walk, trot, and canter as you do this, it will help to supple him and he will begin to trust the contact even more.

As he begins to move with more confidence into your hand (for example you can keep a consistent 3 oz. contact) begin to gradually shorten the reins. As you do this maintain the same pace and rhythm. Again, do not take back, but do not give him back the reins either. If he gets too over bent, do not take back any more - stay with this length until he is comfortable. With time and patience he will learn to move forward from your leg and accept the contact. It is most important to stay patient and be consistent with showing him what you want. Remember, he must move forward from your leg and take the contact without pulling through or sucking back. If he pulls through, close your fingers then lighten when he responds and if he sucks back, move him on with your seat and leg. You may need to alternate between both very quickly. Good luck.

Q: What do I do when my 9 year old former racing TB gets "strong" and saws his head up and down when cantering in a group hack?

A: First work on gaining better control while riding alone. You can do this in the ring and on the trail. You may want to take a lesson to learn some exercises which will help you to gain control through transitions and suppling your horse.

Q: Could you recommend some exercises for balancing and collecting a young horse? I am not a dressage enthusiast, I prefer a loose rein, nevertheless, want collection and a long stride.

A: It is hard to answer this without knowing more about your horse, i.e. what age, what type of daily work, etc. In general, though, when riding your horse you want to start by being able to maintain an even relaxed rhythm in all gaits. This means you determine the pace and he does not speed up or slow down unless you ask him to . Other exercises which will increase his balance and suppleness are making changes of direction often and equally to both sides, and ride different figures such as circles, serpentines, and figure eights. You can also make several transitions between the gaits, for example walk-trot or trot-canter as this will help the balance as well.

Q: I just bought a three year old quarter horse gelding. He's green broke and very gentle. When I first got him, I rode him fine, with the exception that he doesn't neck rein. I just took him to a trainer who has suggested to me that a green rider and a green horse don't mix. I don't feel that I am a green rider and I have a great desire to keep him and learn together. She only agreed to work with us after I told her that I would not give up and that I was determined to become his partner and in one month she could decide if we had to give up. Am I crazy for thinking and feeling this great desire to bond with my new horse when an "expert" is telling me not to try?

A: In general, it is more difficult for an inexperienced rider to work with an inexperienced horse. A young horse can be like a child or a teenager, always testing the boundaries. But they need someone who sets realistic boundaries and is consistent about upholding them. It sounds as if you are realistic about your abilities and expectations. You have decided to work with a trainer who will guide you and you have given this a trial period. If you are consistent, go step by step, and work with your trainer, it is very likely you will form a lasting partnership. I would recommend setting daily, intermediate, and long term goals and reviewing these regularly with your trainer. But most important, be consistent, patient, and have fun.

Q: I have a young horse who at the canter races almost out of control. I have tried lunging prior to riding, letting the horse canter freely in hopes she'll calm down, and riding circles to calm her or tire her out. Any other suggestions?

A: Try transitions, canter to walk or even halt. As soon as he settles down, reward him with releasing the hand. When he starts to pick up the canter without running, reward him again. Maybe even stand in two point position when he is good and sit down and stop him as soon as he gets strong. Be consistent.

Q: How do you train a horse to go down steep hills without throwing head and bucking?

A: Start with small hills and gradually build up his strength for larger steeper hills. Make sure you are sitting balanced in the saddle with your weight in your heels and tilted with your body a little back. You don't want to be hanging on his mouth, you want to give him a few small half halts put then give a comfortable rein so he can balance himself and you are not pulling him off balance. You may want to also check that your saddle is fitting properly. You don't want it to be pinching him. If he continues this, you may want to have your vet check him to make sure hills are not painful for him.

Q: My thoroughbred quarter horse x always grabs the bit and runs full gallop. Would a nose band help this problem? He is very high strung. Do you recommend a hackamore? He seems to be sore on the right side of his withers. Could that be a factor?

A: Experimenting with different types of nose bands could help the problem - especially if he is getting his tongue over the bit or grabbing the bit. A flash, drop noseband, or figure eight are common types of nosebands. Be sure that you have proper fit of the noseband and bit. If the bit is not the right size or not adjusted properly in his mouth, this could add to the problem. A hackamore is a possibility - some horses enjoy a hackamore, others do not. Again, you need to experiment. You need to learn how to ride correctly in hackamore, as they work on a sensitive part of the horse's nose.

If your horse is sore, this could be a big factor. You need to check if the saddle fits properly, maybe this is causing soreness. If you are sure that your tack fits properly and your horse is comfortable and you are still having problems, you may consider consulting a professional. An instructor may be able to offer advice which would help with your problem.

Q: I am considering leasing a twenty-three year old, off-the-track Standardbred gelding. His only problem is with his canter. He does know the cue for the canter and picks up the correct lead, but instead of the normal footfall pattern of a canter, he four-beats. His gait is very unbalanced and hollow-backed. I've heard that if I build up his collection muscles at the walk and trot and eventually at the canter, he will improve. I've also read that lunging him at the canter will help him find his balance. Do you have any suggestions?

A: All of the things you mentioned should improve the canter. Although this type of strengthening work should help, some horses will have this tendency while others naturally have the desired clear 3-beat gait. In addition to the things you mentioned, you may also condition your horse by walking in the country, especially on hills. Talk to your vet about the best conditioning program. It may be helpful to get professional help in setting up the best training program. There are many different exercises that may be beneficial, but it all depends on the horse.

Q: Will my horse have trouble adapting to two different bit sizes when I switch from dressage (lower level) to hunter-jumper?

A: I would not foresee any problem, as long as you ride your horse in both bits at home. Make sure both bits fit correctly and he trains well in them at home before going to a horse show. You may also need to experiment at home with how many days you ride in each bit, you may find that he goes better in one.

Unless he is extremely sensitive, the bits don't fit, or you do not try riding him in each bit, you shouldn't have a problem. We will often ride horses on the flat in a regular snaffle, then switch to a full cheek on jumping days. Also, the upper level dressage horses will switch from a regular snaffle to going in a full bridle.

Q: I have an ex-gymkana horse who is very afraid of the leg. After working with her for two months, she is free, forward, and relaxed at walk and trot, but is very scared and unbalanced at canter. I am schooling her with hill work to strengthen her hind end and canter circles (20m spiraling down to 10 and 15 and back out). I would like to do transitions (trot-canter-trot) but this freaks her out. Is what I'm doing enough to gradually get her off her forehand, or is there anything else I can do? She is usually above the bit at canter, but this has much improved. Her mouth is soft and she is very responsive to seat aids for down transitions. Her circles have improved, but going down the long side, asking her to stay straight ruins everything. She usually four-beats or flys along on her forehand. We work twice a day for 30 minutes total each time and do a big hill at gallop 3 times a week. She goes in a full cheek snaffle. I have had her since May but only working with her for two months, because she had major joint problems in her hocks. My vet gave her injections and this made a 200% improvement in her way of going, she is no longer in pain, but could she have some "phantom pain"? I take plenty of time for warm-up and cool-down to avoid further strain. I would like to use her for T and 1st level dressage.

A: It sounds as if you are doing all the right things, including the hill work to strengthen her and the exercises on the flat. It may take some time for your horse to be relaxed in the canter work especially in the transitions. You are correct in wanting to use the transitions to help her development. If she is too nervous, try making one transition, then doing something else that relaxes her until you do the next. For example, if she is relaxed spiraling on a circle, make a transition from canter to trot as you are spiraling out, then do some trot work that is relaxing to her.

It may also take some time until she is strong enough to stay straight in the canter. Help to condition this by asking for short pieces, especially when going straight down the long side. Try going a short distance asking her to stay straight, even if only a few strides. Then circle and let her relax.

In general, she could be nervous if she is not strong enough or if she is feeling some pain. Since she was so much better after the injection, that seems to indicate she was experiencing pain. Even if she now has no pain, it may take her time to develop the confidence in what she is doing without anticipating pain. The strengthening exercises you are doing should help her overcome that.

Q: I purchased a 5 year old paint mare about 3 months ago. She would lunge into a canter, so I put her on a lunge line bitted up with drawreins fashioned through the bit (eggbutt snaffle), over her pole between the front legs and tied to the girth on each side. I was asking her to extend the trot, then slow down again, walk, then pick up the canter. She was going along fine. If she didn't listen to my command, I pulled on the line to get her head to turn in toward me. Suddenly when I pulled on the line she pulled back and started backing, then reared straight up and landed on her back. She did this twice in a row. What bothers me is that she didn't even get shook up. I am worried that she may do this when being ridden. We have been on trail rides and ridden in the arena at home and she has never reared up. But each time I bit her up and lunge her, she does this maneuver. It seems to happen if she thinks I am going to get angry at her for not listening. She doesn't do it every time I pull her head toward me, but when she blows, I drop the lunge line and let her flip. She is not a small horse, about 15.1 h and 1000-1150 pounds. What do you recommend?

A: Our area of expertise is not behavior problems such as these. You may try contacting John Lyons or someone who works with these types of problems. There are many reasons that your horse may have started this bad habit. I would definitely check that all the equipment is fitting properly and that she is not in pain. It is very easy for a horse to become "backed off" when using equipment such as drawreins. If something is difficult for them anyway, i.e. canter depart, they can feel trapped when you add equipment. My suggestion is to take off the equipment and see if the problem continues when lunging. If not, then slowly tighten the equipment until the horse is able to do what you ask without a problem. One important thing to remember while lunging is to keep the horse moving forward, this will help to keep a horse from backing up and rearing. I have seen horses that react this way on the lunge line, but not with the rider. Just be careful as this is a sign of how they may react in a situation they are uncomfortable with.

Q: I have a 4 year old Thoroughbred gelding off the track. I'm having a terrible problem getting him to take the left lead. No matter how I set him up (correctly, bent to the inside or incorrectly, bent to the outside), at the last possible second, he just pops that right shoulder out and takes the right lead. On the rare instance I've gotten him on it, he feels remarkably good considering he doesn't spend much time on it. He's been examined by several vets and a chiropractor, and no one can find a physical reason. Any suggestions?

A: It is possible he is going through a growing stage. When this happens, I often feel a horse is off balance or can even seem uncomfortable. When I have this type of problem, I sometimes lunge the horse. Not having the rider's weight seems to help. Make trot canter and transitions on the lunge line. If the left side looks weak, do not keep him in the canter too long. You may also need to experiment with the side reins and how you adjust them to determine what length helps your horse the most.

Q: I have recently purchased a 7 year old thoroughbred mare who had very little training. I bred her in the spring and did some english riding with her, but I was away for the summer so she was just turned out to pasture. I've started riding her again and she is doing very well, starting to come round etc., but she has now stopped being willing to pick up the left canter lead. The one time I managed to get her to do it she pinned her ears back the whole time, obviously distressed. She is fine cantering to the right and shows no soreness at the trot. Palpation of the back shows no soreness there. Any suggestions as to what could be going on?

A: As long as you and the vet are sure there are no physical problems preventing her from cantering, my guess would be that she needs more strength and suppleness. You may spend some time conditioning her, for example, out on trails, walking up and down hills. Your vet would be able to give you an exercise program.

She may also need time to get her balance and suppleness back. Spend some time in the trot using different ring figures. Make several changes of direction and also make walk-trot transitions. When these things feel easier try the canter again. Don't wait too long because the best way to teach her to canter is to do it. You may also try lunging her with side reins because it may be easier to pick up the correct lead without a rider on her back. For more details on picking up the correct lead, see other answers in this section.

Q: I have a marvelous horse who scores well in all movements except rein back. The rein back is obedient and accurate (correct number of steps), but is not in diagonal pairs. Any suggestions?

A: The only exercise I can suggest is to make a halt, walk forward several steps, then go immediately into rein back. This way the horse is already positioned to start the rein back with diagonal pairs.

Q: I purchased a 12 yr. old Quarter horse mare. She is well sacked out and very dependable. Her last owner used a Tom Thumb snaffle on her. When I tried the same type of bit on her, she tossed her head relentlessly. I am currently using a regular snaffle bit on her with some success, but nothing seems to slow her down. She seems to need firm contact on the bit at all times. What can I do to make her more responsive and relaxed? She doesn't seem to understand the "release" she can get if she relaxes for me.

A: I would start by teaching her to halt when you close your fingers on the reins. Be firm if you need to, but immediately release when she stops. She may only stop briefly, trying to move off again when you release. If she does this, immediately repeat the process. Be consistent and remember that the giving is really important, even if it is only an instant before she takes the contact again. Also try to move her forward before she does it herself, she will soon make the connection and begin to wait for your aids. Do not expect it to be perfect at the beginning. It will happen gradually. You can also do this exercise with walk-trot-transitions. Soon she will learn to wait for you when you close your fingers, whichever gait you are in. For example if you are in the trot, and want to slow her down or keep her from rushing, you will be able to close your fingers and release. She will slow down without going against you and maintain the speed you want until you ask otherwise. If at some point she doesn't listen (and she will do this) you can always use your transitions to walk or halt again.

Q: My 5 year old Morgan mare is easily distracted while I ride her. If she sees something different, she stops dead in her tracks from a walk or trot, head and ears go up, and she is oblivious to rein, voice, or leg cues. Spurs have been suggested. She takes maybe two steps with the same response. I've been riding her 6 months, 2 to 3 times a week. Any suggestions?

A: This can be typical behavior for a young horse. She needs to learn to pay attention to your aids and you need to make sure you are consistently giving them and rewarding her for an answer. You might start by making several walk-halt-walk transitions. This will get her attention and also teach her to be more responsive. When you ask her to go forward make sure you give a light tap with the leg, and then if she doesn't listen, reinforce it with the whip or spur. But then always go back to a softer aid. Always make sure you halt before she decides to stop, even if you only go a couple of steps. Do the same thing with walk-trot-walk transitions. You can also make more turns, figures, and changes of direction to keep her attention. To teach her to respond to the rein you may use some bending exercises to teach her to soften when you close your fingers. Just remember that when you give aid, you must reward her by softening when she answers. You may try taking a dressage lesson to learn how to give the proper aids.

Q: My horse will not canter on her left lead, no matter how much inside leg on the girth and outside leg behind the girth I use. I have also tried doing small circles. Do you have any suggestions?

A: There are a couple of things you can try. First I would try asking for the canter as you go into the corner. This helps him to get the proper balance for the correct lead. Another thing some people try is to ask for a slight outside flexion, which gives the horse some more freedom to pick up the correct lead. Without seeing the horse it is hard to give exact advice on how to fix the problem and to know if your aids are correct. I like to make sure that I don't need to use a strong leg, but rather the horse responds to a nice tap. I will reinforce with a sharp, more definite tap and/or whip if there is no response, but I do not like to squeeze or hold with my leg. I also like to make sure the horse is properly balanced before I ask for the canter, i.e. not falling in or out of the circle or line of travel, and I make sure I can easily flex the horse both ways before I ask for the canter. If some of these ideas do not help, you may try asking a profession for help.

Q: My new Arabian mare is very high-headed and had been ridden with heavy hands. How can I teach her to accept contact and lower her head?

A: This can be a complicated question to answer. There are many different possible exercises to teach a horse to accept contact, but they may depend on the horse and the current way of going. My best recommendation would be to take a dressage lesson and get an evaluation. The instructor would then be able to explain the proper aids for achieving what you want. The instructor should make sure you have the proper aids for keeping the horse forward as well as the ability to use your fingers and wrists independently of your arms. You must be able to follow the motion of the horse while at the same time give her clear rein aids that guide her in accepting contact. The horse must also move correctly forward from your leg, so that you are able to receive and guide this forward motion with your fingers.

Q: In teaching a young horse to cross water, what is the safest and best approach to take? Recently, we attempted a water crossing on a trail ride. I tried presenting the water from several angles. I tried following another horse across, tried crossing side by side with another horse, tried allowing the other horse to cross and go out of site. I tried tried trotting into it, even tried dismounting and leading him across. Nothing worked. He was not nervous at the site of water, is not herd bound (where he would feel threatened if left alone), and was not intimidated by my using a crop and being stern. This could be a "pig-headed" issue since the horse lives with a pond and a stream in his field and he regularly stands with at least two feet in.

A: It sounds like you have been creative - I am not able to think of something that you didn't already try. This would be a good question to ask a trainer like John Lyons. You should try one of his books or tapes or maybe you could write in to his newsletter.

Q: What exercises can I do to help improve my young horse's transitions from trot to canter, canter to trot without falling apart? I have tried to repeat transition work over and over but the more transitions I do, my horse begins to drop his head down too much at the canter and over flex. If I try to relax my contact, he gets very strung out and rushes at the canter and falls apart on the transitions.

A: Part of the issue may be time and your horse developing the strength he needs to carry himself. In the meantime, to help him develop the strength, you may try leg yielding out of a circle (i.e., 18 m to 20 m) and picking up the canter immediately after the leg yield. Be sure though that you do not let him run through the outside leg and rein. You can also try this in walk-trot-walk transitions, maybe even try this from the quarter-line. Also, especially while in canter, make your next transition (i.e. canter to trot) while he is good, before he has a chance to fall apart.

It is also important to encourage your horse to reach for the contact without holding him together. You want to feel his energy moving over his back into the contact without running through. If he curls and gets too deep, move him off your seat and leg. If he rushes, explain you do not want this either, then repeat. As it sounds like you are doing, relax the contact (without dropping him) and give him the chance to carry himself. This may take a lot of repetition until he understands and has the muscle for it. Above all, be patient and try to explain things simply.

Q: My hunter is having problems with a proper head set, even with a martingale. How do I get her to get her head lower?

A: I would suggest a couple of dressage lessons. This would teach you the use of rein and leg aids which would help you get your horse in the proper frame (head set). You can learn to ride your horse in whatever frame you would like (i.e., a frame appropriate for dressage, hunter, etc.)

Q: I have a 3 year old half Morgan, half Appaloosa and when I lope he will not turn left. What can I do?

A: How long has he been cantering under saddle? He may be having trouble with balance and coordination for the turn. I would reinforce the turning aids at the walk and trot to make sure he understands this. Then add the canter. At first you may try cantering straight and trot before you need to turn.

Q: I have a 15 year old Arab that I have been riding for 10 years. When we ride trails, which is quite often, she still wants to gallop frantically even on 2 hour rides. How can I get her to want to do a nice steady canter instead of acting so high strung. She is well fed, but I no longer feed her grains or molasses.

A: Does she get turnout? Try getting her attention by asking her to do different things like transitions, change of direction, keep her busy. Get her mind off of galloping.

Q: I have a horse that has been in training for almost two years (just putting lengthenings on her). After changing barns, she has started grinding her teeth and hanging her tongue out. We have been doing a lot of lateral work to strengthen her back end (create thrust), baby pirouettes, etc. Her teeth have been floated and she did have some soreness which has been dealt with. It seems to be a contact problem, she starts as soon as you pick up the reins. I can now lunge her without her grinding, and I've been doing some hacking out on a loose rein. I'm curious about what this "body language" is conveying. One of my concerns is that the trainer corrected her tendency to lean by "sharp jerks" and ditto a tendency to lock the left jaw. I fear she no longer "trusts" the bit. Her comment was that if it wasn't a soundness, tooth issue, we would just tighten the noseband and really push her through. I find this bothersome as it's my understanding that this is a contact issue which implies that you drop back a rung on the dressage ladder to relaxation and looseness. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.

A: It is hard to answer this question without seeing the horse and the problems you are experiencing. It sounds as if you have checked for physical problems. Have you also checked the fit of the saddle and bit? Without experiencing firsthand the problem and being able to look for causes. I would suggest discussing with your trainer the pros and cons of different methods and then deciding on a program you are both comfortable with.

Q: I have a 20 year old QH mare and a 5 year old QH gelding. I cannot take one out for a ride with both being frantic to get back to one another. I round pen both and they are excellent there. Any suggestions, separation anxiety is bad for both of them. I don't have another person to ride with, so that's not an option. I tried to pony one while riding the other, but that was disaster.

A: Try to separate them at other times, not just when riding. When you are riding, do a lot of transition and change of direction. Keep them busy and thinking about what you are asking.

Q: When I lunge my 8 year old P.O.A. gelding, he develops an attitude. He prefers the direction to the left and fights with me on the right after going about 2 circles. When I anticipate a fight coming up, I stop him and make him go the other way, so he will realize that it was my decision to turn the other way. He is very quick to learn things and very intelligent. He has never been abused and is not afraid of the lunge whip and I prefer to try to keep it that way if possible. He listens quite well by voice alone. He can be rather temperamental so I try to evaluate this before exercising him and adjusting the plan accordingly. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

A: It sounds like you are doing a good job of working with his mind. I would continue what you are doing and I would hope it is a strengthening problem and he will get stronger and be able to do more each time. If not, you may have to get strong and get some respect from the lunge whip. Notice I said respect, not fear.

Q: Could you tell me your opinion on conditioning young horses on hills? I've always worked my young horses on hills to build up their hind ends. But I read in an article that you should only walk down hills and that you should only walk or canter up hills. They said that in the trot, the circular movement of the joints can cause wear and tear. Is this true? Should we not trot up hills? I do combined training and I do lots of trot work on hills because we are expected to trot and gallop up and down hills on cross country.

A: This is a question I would ask my vet or combined training expert. Growing up doing competitive trail riding I also was taught to walk or canter uphill or walk down. There is probably much information today on proper conditioning and wear and tear on the joints, but I would not be the one to ask about this.

Q: How do I get a 9 year old ex-race horse to stop "crow hopping" when I ask him to trot, not canter, on a hack? This problem is especially acute when he is in a pack or less than first in a line.

A: I would first try this alone, or with just one horse, making sure he could be in front. Practice these transitions (canter to trot) as well as other things to keep his attention on you and not thinking about running. You may try some leg yields or circles to keep his attention. As he begins to pay attention to you, you may start letting the other horse go in front. This may take a very long time, so I wouldn't over force him with too much excitement.

Q: Is Centered Riding a good method of riding? Any better?

A: I do not have firsthand experience with Centered Riding techniques though I have heard from my students and seen some of the many benefits. It is my understanding that Centered Riding is not a "method" but a cross discipline supplement to many types of riding. It is my understanding that it offers many tools for learning to be in harmony with the horse. As with all things, including information I give, I encourage people to evaluate what makes sense and integrate what works into their own riding. It is also important to constantly be open to new ways of learning.

Q: How do I get my horse to accept contact without becoming heavy on the forehand? He will not stay in a frame or on the bit, usually runs through the hand or goes on forehand.

A: It is hard to answer this question without seeing you and your horse together. Since your horse is on the forehand, it sounds as if he needs to learn to use his hind end correctly. To do this he needs to properly answer your seat and leg. The use of transitions would help him to get stronger behind and work correctly. I would suggest a professional evaluation where you can get a recommendation for the proper exercises and you can learn the tools to execute these.

Q: When I go down the center line in an arena during a dressage test, I always lean to the left. When I get lessons, I stay in the proper position for 2 seconds and then go left again. I also do this when I am circling both ways. How can I get straight in the saddle?

A: You may have a tightness or weakness in your body which is causing this to happen. I would suggest some lunge lessons to work on your suppleness, relaxation, and balance while on the horse. It is also important to do exercises while off the horse to help stretch and strengthen various areas. A yoga class would be very beneficial in helping you to pinpoint tight areas and giving you exercises to work on them.

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