Training-Sporthorse-Basic through 3rd Level
Questions (For answers, scroll down or click on
question) I have a 15 year old Quarter
Horse that is a bit high strung when heading back home while I'm riding her.
When I pull on the reins to slow her down, she walks only a few paces then
speeds back up to a trot. How do I teach her to calm down and remain at a
walk? Questions and Answers Q: Is there a difference between when a horse is "round" or "on the bit"? A: A Horse being "round" often refers
mainly to the overall frame – poll highest point, vertical line drawn to the ground
– response to fingers only. "On the bit" adds more ingredients to just
roundness and takes into consideration more factors. The horse is moving forward with good
energy from the leg into light receiving fingers. Some do not like this term, some may
refer to it as thoroughness.
Q: My horse is often heavy or pulling my hands, what should I do? A: It is important to work with your instructor
to diagnose the cause of the pulling. Some causes and suggestions: the horse may be stiff
somewhere, often helpful is a counter bend to the stiff direction. Ask for the bend in
small increments. If stiff, it will be hard to bend. For example, small bend a few
strides, then straighten, and repeat. The horse may be lazy behind, not carrying himself.
If he is on the forehand you will feel heaviness. I often make several transitions –
walk-trot-walk, or trot-canter-trot. The horse must give a sensitive, energetic response
to your leg when you ask for the transition and during the transition. The rider does not
allow the horse to pull the reins through the fingers, by closing the fist. After every
correction with the hand or let it is important to relax, be soft and follow with both.
Q: What is a good overall program for my 3-4 year old? A: At Hilltop, we ride our young horses 5 to 6
days a week. We school them in the ring 2 to 3 days (warm up and cool out outside of the
ring). Other days we combine conditioning work: hacking, galloping on a tract or field,
maybe doing a short schooling set outside in a field. This keeps their minds fresh, builds
their condition while also building the proper muscles for the work they will do as they
get older.
Q: How are Balance, Equilibrium, and Collection introduced in training a horse? A: A trainer introduces the basics of balance and
the building blocks of collection from the first time he/she rides the green horse. The
green horse is learning balance as he learns to carry the rider. He must learn the basics
of responding to the rider's legs, seat, and hands. From here, throughout training,
balance and collection are a matter of straightness, suppleness, and strength. The trainer
teaches the young horse to maintain straightness on simple figures. The horses also learns
to go freely forward from the leg. As the horse develops, he gains more balance. The
horse's work becomes more challenging as he is asked to maintain straightness/balance and
energy throughout more gymnastic figures. As he proceeds through the levels, he learns to
carry his gradual process which results in the horse becoming more collected. Collection
is first called for in second level, but keep in mind that the rider is continually
striving to help the horse become stronger and asking for increasing collection. This is
not something you just begin one day, it happens over time and is something which will
come only from a solid foundation. You might want to check the February, March, April
issues of Dressage & CT. There are some good articles on collection and the
development of the horse.
Q: How long does it take to achieve each level? A: Achieving a certain level will definitely vary
from horse to horse. Some people use a guideline of one level per year, but most
importantly, you must learn to listen to your horse. Some may go one level a year, others
may be at one level for a couple of years, then develop the strength to move on. If you
are showing your horse, you generally will want to show at a level below which you are
schooling your horse.
Q: My Tennessee Walker mare is 5 years old. When I take her out she pulls her head down toward the ground which pulls me forward - how can I keep her head up, alert, and paying attention? A: First of all, if she does pull, hold one rein
with closed fingers and elbows against sides so she cannot pull you forward. If you need
to, hold onto the rein and saddle so she can't pull through. Wait for her to stop pulling
or fussing, then immediately follow her as a reward. I wouldn't hold both reins, because
she could get upset if she felt locked in. She may make a circle when you do this. You
will need to do this consistently to break the habit. We teach our horses to bend when we
close the fingers gently on the rein - this is very helpful for in the ring or on the
trail. One or two dressage lessons might be helpful to you. Also, to help keep her
attention, you might try turning or making a small circle when she is distracted, then go
straight. This will help keep her focus on you and waiting for what you are going to ask
next.
Q: How can I further my training beyond walk, trot, and canter when there are no true dressage instructors in my area? A: It can be very difficult and frustrating to advance yourself and your horse when you do not have some good dressage riders to watch or have any local instructors. I can make a few suggestions that you might consider. First of all, it sounds as if your horse is tuned in to the basic aids. Your next step would be to do suppling exercises to increase balance and straightness (this is the normal step after the horse responds to walk, trot, and canter). We teach our horses to bend, using one rein first. At this point, you really need someone on the ground to help you. You might make use of videos (i.e. Kyra Kyrkland has a series, training level through Grand Prix) to receive a good basic understanding of what you need to achieve with your horse. If possible, I would also encourage you to travel to audit some clinics, where you can get some good ideas. My biggest word of caution is to be very careful to sort out the good from the bad and use what feels right to you. Not all styles of teaching are right for everyone. So trust your instincts. I would advise you to save up some money to spend
an intensive weekend with an instructor you like. At some point, you will need
professional eyes to let you know if you are on the right track and to help you set up a
program. It is possible to progress without instruction every week, we even encourage
students to work on their own as much as possible. Additional tools which help you
progress without an instructor are goal setting, visualization, and watching videos of
yourself.
Q: My 6 year old gelding paces at the walk after being treated for EPM for one year. What can I do in my training to avoid this? A: I think the walk is one of the more difficult things to
fix. First, I like to ride a horse with a difficult walk out in the country on a long
rein, keeping him forward and in front of my leg. This would tell me if he has more of a
physical or a training problem since a horse is often more forward and loose outside.
Regardless, I would do a lot of walk work outside for conditioning. In the ring, as you
put him together, be very consistent about maintaining that forwardness and feeling of
being in front of your leg. He must respond to a light tap with the leg, and then maintain
a forward walk, while you have a totally relaxed leg (never bug him or continue to squeeze
with your leg). If he doesn't respond, use your whip to teach him. Check your own body,
legs, seat, and back that they are following. See if you are tightening up or stopping the
motion when he paces. The next thing I would do is teach him lateral work. Don't walk in a
lot of straight lines. Use a lot of circles, half circles, changes of direction, mixed
with leg yield and shoulder in, at walk to break up any blocks or tightness he may have.
The longer you keep him in a totally straight line, the more chance he will get against
you in the walk and begin to pace.
Q: Will learning how to use my hands and legs give me a perfect position in my seat? A: Proper use of hands and legs are important.
You need to develop a seat independent of your legs and hands. To achieve this you need
supple hips which follow the horse's rhythm. You must also be able to balance on the horse
without gripping. Your hands and legs also must be able to follow the rhythm, with loose
joints throughout your body. We are always striving for the horse to look like a dancer,
but the rider is just as important and should also be fluid like a dancer. A great way to
work on your position is to work on the lunge line. This way you can focus on yourself and
not have to worry about directing the horse. Q: What exercises, nutritional support, etc., can I use to help my dressage horse's loose stifle problem? A: There is nothing nutritional that will
help a loose stifle problem. We find that it is best to proceed with exercise and
condition a horse with loose stifles out in the country. Start with gradual
conditioning outside, beginning with small hills and increase to steeper hills over
time. Walking hills is the best for strengthening. Before starting
any program, you should discuss this your veternarian.
Q: How can I make my 16 hand horse stay balanced, collected and in control at the lope? A: The answer depends on your horse's age and on
what stage of training your horse is in. In general, the more transitions you make,
the more balanced he will stay. It is best to start with walk-trot-walk transitions.
The horse must be able to make the transition without pulling the rider's hand.
He must also be sensitive to the rider's legs in the upward and downward
transitions. It is advisable to get the help of a professional to watch that you are
using your legs and hands together correctly. After the walk-trot transitions, you
can go to trot-canter transitions. Eventually, as the horse becomes more balanced
and stronger, you will move onto canter-walk transitions. It is always important
that you don't let your horse pull through the reins, that your hands, arms, and the rest
of your body follow the motion of the horse, they do not hold or block the energy.
Acquiring collection is a gradual process. These transitions are the
beginning. The horse becomes more collected as he is stronger and is able to carry
more weight on the hind legs, while maintaining his energy suppleness and rhythm.
The degree of collection increases as the horse becomes older, and as his training
progresses. The important thing is to start with good basic transitions, with proper
straightness, energy and responses to your aids.
Q: My horse is a 7 year old, 17H Hannovarian gelding. I'm having a problem getting him to listen to the half-halts. He prefers to run through them or not even acknowledge them. The canter is worse. I've tried many transitions at both the trot and canter with success only after he's a bit tired. I have also tried applying the half-halts a few strides from a wall and then, if he doesn't listen, ride him into the wall. This helps only briefly. What do you suggest to get him to listen right from the beginning of our work sessions? A: It sounds like a balance
problem, which causes stiffness, which then causes him to be out behind. I would
suggest to first work on his balance. To do this, let him be round in basic trot,
then bring him above bit into a halt or walk transition, back to trot, and let him be
round again. He should start to relax his back and anticipate your elevating him for
transitions. Once he is soft at trot to walk, then try your half halts. Good
luck.
Q: How do you feel about riding without a noseband? My trainer says don't - I have read it's fine, in fact, most horses like it better, and my own horse feels better without one - but if I am doing something wrong, I want to know. A: This is individual for each
horse, there are reasons for and against. If your horse feels better and is
comfortable without one, that is fine. The danger is of the horse opening his mouth
or biting his tongue, which would be easier without a noseband or with a very loose
one. If the horse bites his tongue and "scares" himself, he could become
resistant. We have also ridden several horses without a noseband, and some are
calmer, more comfortable and quiet in the mouth. You also might consider how your
horse would react going from no noseband to having one for a show, if you ever show him.
Q: I own an imported 3 year old warmblood stallion that was purchased (as a yearling) as a stallion prospect. He has never been bred. While his temperament and behavior in all departments is top notch, he rears straight up when being lead (when he gets excited about another horse) and while being ridden (when he refuses to bend or go forward a certain way). He is in professional training with an FEI level rider. Traditional methods have failed to cure this behavior. From your experience, what is the probable success rate for curing this problem as a stallion? Will gelding him generally solve the problem? A: [Scott] This is a difficult question to answer
without seeing or being a little more familiar with the stallion. My first reaction
is that this will be no problem once he is more mature. The success will be related
to breaking this habit soon! What I would stress is to find a way he cannot go up.
First instinct should be to go forward. As soon as he looks or even thinks
about going up, I would bend him a little and gallup forward, trying to avoid a
punishment. To answer your second question, I am not sure this is a stallion problem or a
young horse normal resistance. Try what is mentioned above, definitely before
gelding him.
Q: I have a four year old (just off the track, but in great shape) who is a doll, but is so heavy on the forehand. What exercises can I do with him? He is so quiet that I need spurs to move him forward. A: First, I would do some bending exercises to make sure he is responsive to your fingers. For instructions on how to do these exercises, it might be best to check Jill Hassler's article, "John Lyons and Dressage" in Dressage & CT Magazine, Feb 1996. If you do not have access to this, or need further instructions, you may contact me again. Once your horse is responding to your fingers, you can ask him to move off your leg with more control. You must have a very relaxed leg. Ask him very lightly to move forward. When he does not respond, tap him sharply to get a response. Then totally relax your leg again. You must never hold and continuously squeeze your leg or he will shut down. When you consistently relax your leg, then ask him sharply if he does not at first respond, he will learn to move forward from a light squeeze (you can also tap with a whip right behind the leg). You will then continue responsiveness to the
fingers and legs with transitions. As he begins to make transitions while staying in
front of your leg, he will start using himself more correctly, and get lighter in
front. It is always best to have a qualified instructor guide you through the
process.
Q: I have a horse I am training, and she drags her hind legs in the trot. What is the best way to make her pick up her feet and get her to move from her hindquarters more? A: First, you should make sure she is answering your leg properly. If you touch her lightly with your calf, does she move forward immediately? If not, touch her lightly and if she ignores you, get a reaction by giving her a stronger tap or quick kick with the leg. Always go back to a light leg. You may need to repeat this several times until she moves nicely forward from a light leg. You can also use a whip to reinforce the tops. Never hold, or constantly squeeze your leg. The next step to get more activity from the
hindquarters is to add transitions. Several walk-trot transitions will help her to
develop more push. You can then move on to trot-canter transitions. Depending
on your horse's level, you can add transitions within the gait. All of these
transitions will develop activity, plus keep the horse sensitive. Be sure to keep a
light response to your leg while doing this work. You will also want to make sure
your horse is not pulling through your fingers and onto the forehand.
Q: My tobiano paint keeps bucking. My flank cinch is fairly loose. Should I tighten it up a little? A: I would recommend tightening your girth a little. I like to have a snug girth. It prevents the saddle from slipping or moving around too much, which can be irritating to the horse. If that doesn't work, you might consider the type of girth you use. I ride a horse which goes wonderfully in a leather girth, but if I put on a string girth, he will start bucking immediately. Other horses prefer a string girth. You may want to consider several of the other reasons that a horse may buck. First, I would make sure all the equipment is fitting correctly. Are the saddle and bridle pinching or rubbing? Is the saddle pad comfortable? Or, ask yourself if there is some other reason for the bucking. Does your horse have too much energy? Is he resisting work? Does he want to go back to the barn? I would also make sure he is not sore anywhere and make sure his teeth aren't bothering him. There could be any number of reasons for this
behavior, but I would try to figure it out as soon as possible so he does not develop any
bad habits. If you are unsure, it is always best to get the help of a trusted
professional. Q: For the big, fast-growing warmbloods, do you recommend having the knees x-rayed to check on the growth plates before the start of training? A: Certainly taking x-rays of knees or for that
matter all the joints is a good idea but not necessary. We at Hilltop take full
x-rays on all our three year olds. The training begins in the spring of their three
year old year.
Q: I am a first time horse owner and I need all the help I can get. My Percheron will be a yearling in May and where I live people seem to dislike the larger breeds of horse, feeling that all they can do is pull a cart. I have a Shetland for that and I want more for my yearling colt when he is older. Can you suggest where I can go for help? I would really like to see him do anything but driving or just trail riding. Also, he does not have papers and I don't know if that is important for showing him. A: First, I would research the various disciplines of riding to decide what I was most interested in. I would suggest going to different types of shows, i.e. hunter/jumper, dressage, eventing. Ask people questions and find out what training facilities are in your area. I would then visit different facilities and ask if you can watch the training. Once you decide on the type of riding and a facility you like, you can ask about taking lessons. It is not necessary to have papers to go to a
horse show. But you might need them if you are interested in year end awards.
For example, in dressage, the different breeds offer year end awards for their
breed.
Q: How do you calm down a nervous horse? A: There could be many answers to this question, depending on the situation. Without having more details, I will say that I believe the best thing you can do is help the nervous horse to focus. There are many reasons a horse may be nervous - fear of the environment, pain, or rider tension are just a few. I would first check that there is nothing physical bothering him, such as tack that doesn't fit or some physical problem he may have. After you have checked this, then take the horse into a nonthreatening environment to gain his confidence. Begin by asking him to do something simple that he knows, such as bending or a circle. You can then add more as he relaxes. The important thing is that you are getting him to focus on you, not on what he is nervous about. This means it is also important for you to focus, not thinking of what he is afraid of or what he might do next. You must also check that you are mentally and physically relaxed and not sending nervous signals to your horse. Another approach I may take, depending on the
horse, is doing many things that will keep him occupied. So instead of doing one
simple thing until you gain his confidence, try doing many. He will be thinking -
what is she going to ask next? Try doing several transitions in a row, change of
direction, etc. The approach you take will vary depending on the horse, and what
you believe to be the root of his nerves.
Q: One week ago I bought my first horse, a 4 year old quarter horse gelding, who is really well-mannered but super athletic and energetic. His previous owner, a trainer, lunged him when he was fresh which amounts to having an eleven hundred pound lunatic on a line. Can you recommend a more controlled method of helping him dispel some energy? (I'm at a barn where the trainer refuses to turn horses out for fear they'll get hurt. The only alternative is the walker.) A: Congratulations on your new horse. Sorry
you can't turn him out, that would probably really help your problem. So, let's go
with what you have. Your horse may just need to get adjusted to his new home, new
handler, and new schedule. These are a lot of changes for a horse. Try putting
side reins on him, make the inside one about 5 holes tighter. This helps lighten him
up and gives you more control (Be careful when putting them on if he is not used to
them. Make them very loose at first.). Start out lunging him in small
circles and make them larger when you gain control (Not so small that he can kick you).
If he starts to act like a lunatic, bring him back in or make your circle smaller.
Don't forget to use your voice.
Q: I have a 5 year old Trakehner mare. About a month ago, a junior rider was unbridling my horse after a hack class, and as she was taking off the bridle with a thin snaffle bit, the mare shook her head at the same time, catching the corner of her lip on the bit. My mare freaked, throwing her head up and making a bad situation worse. Since then, regardless of how slow or careful anyone might be, she anticipates the worst and closes her mouth on the bit and lifts her head. (I have had both a vet and a dentist check her out to see if there is any physical problem. I have tried putting a tub of sweet feed in front her, carrots and apples, hoping to take the bridle off while her head was down and her mouth open, but to no avail. As soon as the bridle is taken over her head, she clamps down on the bit and throws her head. We even tried pinching her skin in an effort to distract her. I'm not in favor of using pain or fear to accomplish a result, I'd rather that she figure out that she only needs to open her mouth to drop the bit. She is no problem to bridle, has a very good disposition, and is willing to please. At this time, I unbuckle the two cheek pieces of the bridle on either side to let the bit drop, she still clamps her mouth and throws her head, but now opens her mouth. Eventually the bit and reins drop. Once she is rid of the bit, it is no problem to unbridle her.) Please let know of any suggestions you may have. A: I had success with a horse having a similar
problem. I held sugar cubes in the palm of my left hand and gave them to
horse. Right hand is on poll, reassuring horse and keeping head from raising. With
right hand, I take off crown piece, but don't let drop down. Gather the bridle
together in left hand with left hand resting on front of nose so whole bridle does not
drop out. Give another sugar cube, then gradually let bit come out. The horse
still threw his head at first, but gradually learned that the bit would not drop out of
his mouth. You may need to spend time teaching the horse to accept and give to
pressure at the poll and nose before you try this with the bridle.
Q: I have recently purchased a 9 year old AQHA mare after an absence from being around horses of over 10 years. The mare had been out to pasture and unattended to for approximately 1 year or longer. During the first week at her new home she somehow injured her right front leg. The vet diagnosed her with a mild stretched tendon, medicated her, and advised me to allow a minimum of 30 days before working with her again (Bute twice/day, msdo ointment to her leg). During this recovery time, are there any exercises I can do to try and rehabilitate her? Is simply leading her too strenuous, or would that be beneficial in her recovery? A: This is something I suggest you discuss with
your vet. Depending on the severity of the injury, your horse might first need
stall rest, but may later be able to handwalk. If we have a horse with this type of
injury, we have our vet closely monitor it and advise us of the exercise program.
This can consist of only handgrazing and no walking, then later on handwalking, and
eventually, walking with the rider on the horse's back. Of course, this all depends
on the horse and type of injury.
Q: We've had a 22 year old, 1/2 arab and 1/2 shetland, pony for 3 years. Recently, she turns around to bite my daughter's foot when she squeezes for her to canter. She has also become aggressive out in the pasture if she feels that we are trying to catch her for riding. She will actually charge my two young daughters. Does she need more exercise (she is hardly ridden due to her attitude)? What can I do to solve this? She runs around bucking and kicking a lot, so I know she feels pretty good. A: I would suggest having a veterinarian
thoroughly check your mare. Since this behavior came on recently, maybe something is
bothering her. I have heard of mares that develop hormonal problems which can make
them uncomfortable, though I do not have any experience with this myself.
Q: Rocky is a four year old thoroughbred used for pleasure riding only. Just lately he has kicked out at two different horses while riding. What can be done to stop him from doing this? A: First, you need to let people know that your
horse may kick, and to keep their distance. Then, the most important thing is to
teach your horse to keep his attention on you. There are different exercises you may
do, but you need to make sure you also stay focused. Do not worry about the other
horses, you have already warned their riders to stay away. As you are riding, if
your horse becomes distracted, do something to get his attention. For example, you
may make a small circle and then continue on, maybe mix up which direction you
circle. Try bending your horse one direction, this may help. If your horse is
not too nervous, try walk-halt-walk transitions. It is very important that you are
consistent with what you are asking and how.
Q: Approximately one year ago, I purchased a 4 1/2 acre farmette that came with a horse. I then purchased a quarter horse gelding for my 12 year old daughter. This horse was an absolute gem; wouldn't hurt a fly if you asked him. Since then, I sold the original horse that came with the farm and acquired two other horses (one gelding and one mare) from a friend. The quarter horse accepted those two horses in a short period of time. I noticed some changes in his disposition but nothing too drastic. Approximately two weeks ago, I purchased an eight year old thoroughbred, who also has a very calm eye. Now my calm and laid back quarter horse has turned into a Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde. He is very protective with the two horses and literally chases the thoroughbred around the field trying to bite and kick him whenever he gets too close to any of the horses. He dislikes the thoroughbred and that is putting it mildly. He has gotten a mean streak in him that I just cannot understand. He even lunged at my daughter when she approached him in the field and bit her. I bought the thoroughbred for my other child to teach both kids at the same time, but there is no way I would be able to get the two horses in the ring at the same time. Now my daughter is even scared of the quarter horse because of his new acquired disposition. Any help to resolve this problem would be greatly appreciated. A: It does sound like your quarter horse is being
protective of the mare. I would try taking the mare out of the field to see if the
quarter horse would settle down. It may just be a matter of rearranging pasture
mates until you find a combination that works. There is also the chance that if you
leave them all together, they will work things out. Once they are separated, the
quarter horse and the Thoroughbred might be alright together in the ring.
Q: We have a 16 year old Arabian gelding named Tony. We recently purchased him from a man who had owned him for 10 years. Tony is very patient with being handled and saddled. He also will let the kids (9 and 11 year old beginners) ride around the corral on him for about 30 minutes. However, when he decides he has had enough riding, he starts resisting the turns and sidestepping back toward the barn. He does a little head tossing and snorting which is very intimidating to beginners. We don't want to encourage a bad habit, so we ride a little longer by physically leading him around and not letting him go to the barn. Can you help with this problem? A: First, I would suggest finding a more experienced rider who can ride Tony through his resistance. It is important, from the very beginning of the ride, to make sure he is responsive to the aids. This means he answers the rider's leg immediately to go forward. If he does not listen to a light tap of the leg, also tap him with the whip. You can make a lot of transitions, i.e. walk-trot-walk. Also make sure he is responsive to the
turns. Make a lot of changes of direction so he is thinking about the rider.
If he resists the turns, or steps sideways, have the rider use the inside rein (toward
where you want to go) and tap with the outside leg, so he cannot run in that direction.
Q: I'm a first time horse owner and have had one riding lesson. I did fine with turning during the lesson on one of their horses, but my own horse seems to be getting the wrong cues from me for turning. What exactly is expected by the horse? That is, how should the reins be applied, as well as, body movement? To turn left, I move my rein hand left and lean left with my right leg pressing behind the girth. I think the bit is not moving right or something, but don't know for sure. She will either stop or walk sideways instead of turning. A: There could be several things going on, since
your horse may not be as finely tuned to the aids as a lesson horse. You correctly
stated the aids for turning. You are also correct about leaning left, just don't
over do it. Remember that you want your shoulders even with your horse's shoulders,
so if you are turning, you can turn your shoulders slightly in the direction you are
going. You might also want to pay attention to your back and seat. These need
to be relaxed and following the movement of the horse. If these tighten up, the
horse will stop or go sideways. Before you turn, you can get a nice feel of the
rhythm by closing your eyes for a few strides and let your body follow the motion of the
horse. When you give the aids to turn, keep this feeling. If your horse stops
or goes sideways, give sharp taps with your legs then relax your leg, do not hold with a
steady pressure. Give this some practice, you may not fix it in one time, but this
should get you on the right track.
Q: We have a 7 year old quarter horse that was shown previously a great deal. He was always on the road. He has now decided he won't go on the trailer. He is a very large animal and I don't want to see anybody or him hurt! We have tried hitting his hocks with a lunge whip, but that only guarantees him watching his backend constantly instead of where he is going. One trainer, I called, suggested making him eat all his meals on the trailer. I can do this for the evening meal, but I work and would never leave him in the ring with the trailer all day by himself. For the evening meal, he stretches his neck as far as he can and can almost reach the food by simply standing on the ramp. He goes part way on and eats. Any miracle ideas or techniques? We really want to get him on the road again. A: I would recommend seeing the "Leading and
Loading" video tape by John Lyons. This has valuable and detailed information.
Q: Do you know if you can use a Kimberwike bit on a four year old quarterhorse gelding in a Hutseat class? A: This is not my area of expertise, but as far as
I know, you can use a Kimberwick in any hunter classes. To be sure, check in the AHSA Rule Book.
Q: I have an 18 year old Tennessee Walker, standard bred gelding. He is 16.5H, very energetic, partially blind in the right eye (80%), and a retired trotter. Fifty percent of the time he rears when trying to mount him. He also marches in place (front feet) when trying to saddle him. I have heard unconfirmed reports that he reared and went over on his last owner. I have checked his saddle (western), blanket, girth (string, now covered), curb chain, bridle position, removed bucking strap, attempted using a tie-down, and replaced bit with full check egg butt snaffle. He still rears. I had a vet check him for a physical problem and he received a clean bill of health. Should I have an equine dentist check his teeth? The vet checked and said they did not need floating. How about wolf teeth? Any ideas of how to retrain for this problem? Should I have an equine chiropractor look at him also? A: [Scott] Sounds to me that your horse has had
some bad experiences. The first thing I would try is to do some ground work with
him. I suggest renting a John Lyons "Round Pen Reasoning" tape. This
could be very helpful and will only cost you the small amount of renting a video.
After trying this, then explore other avenues such as dentist or chiropractic.
Q: I have a four year old Fox trotter, gelding, that becomes restless and a little fractious on trail rides. He is usually well behaved when alone, out with only one mare, or in the front of a group from the barn. Why is he behaving in this manner and what can I do to curtail this behavior? A: Start gradually with hacking him in
groups. He is still young and groups may remind him of being in a herd. You
can hack with only one horse, since he seems to be comfortable that way. Take turns
leading, then let the other horse go by your side and in front. As your horse
becomes comfortable with this, gradually go out with more horses.
Q: My five year old mare has been flipping her bit and tossing her head lately. What should I do to get her to stop? We have a big show coming up. A: Since this seems to be new behavior, you should have several things checked out. Have the dentist check to see that her teeth and mouth are OK. Check that her bit and noseband fit properly. If they fit, you might try a different type of bit or noseband (i.e. try regular snaffle vs. broken snaffle). Other things in training to consider, although it is hard to say without seeing the problem, are:
Q: I have a 20 year old mare who we are trying to show again with the grandchildren. She has been doing some odd things, the latest being that when turned out from her stall, she can't seem to lie down to roll. She starts to, then hesitates and pops back up. I am considering having an equine chiropractor check her over and if nothing there, haul her to an equine veterinarian. Unfortunately, in our area, vets don't have the equipment to check her out. I would appreciate any suggestion on what else I should look for. She moves out fine, sometimes better than others. She does seem to warmup slower than normal. We have had her for seven years and prior to that she was a halter/western pleasure paint horse. She was used for awhile prior to my purchase for team roping but this caused her a rear hock problem and she was injected with "acid". She has never shown any signs of trouble from this. A: This definitely is a situation in which I would
consult a veterinarian. Our vet suggests (without having any more information) that
it is most likely arthritis due to old age. Possibly she is having reoccuring hock
problems. We have found with our older horses, it is best to keep them turned out as
much as possible. Also, we give them a long walk to warm them up before riding.
I think having a chiropractor check her is a good idea and also a vet would be able
to recommend ways of helping her to be more comfortable.
Q: What steps can I take to soften the mouth of my six year old AQHA mare who had previously been ridden with twisted snaffle? She has a mouth like cement. We ride pleasure and trail. A: There are several bending exercises you can do
which will teach your horse to be more responsive to the bit. She can learn to give
to the bit with a slight closing of the fingers. I recommend reading any of John
Lyons materials on communicating with the reins and Jill Hassler's & John Lyons'
"Dressage" from Dressage & CT, Feb 96 because they spell out the necessary
steps.
Q: My 5 year old Dutch gelding has been in steady work for seven months, five days a week. He has been working on the basics (stretching, forward) as well as learning his half-halts with transitions between and within the gaits. He is now lame with a sore hock and x-rays show small but definite arthritic changes as compared to his prepurchase films from seven months ago. Does having this problem so early in basic training in any way predict his future ability to progress to FEI? A: This is a very difficult question to answer
without being more familiar with your horse. The best advice I can offer would be to
speak with experienced veterinarians who work on upper level horses management.
Q: I purchased a 5 year old Morgan/Quarter horse gelding who has no concept of lounging. I have started other horses lounging and not experienced this problem. He will not move away from me. I had a helper walk him in the circle but he does not continue after the helper backs off. I have tried to get him into a trot hoping he would move away once in that gait, but he resents the whip and motions to kick out at me. Any suggestions? A: First of all, if he is acting like he will
kick, be very alert, and ready to keep his head facing you. As you keep a steady
contact with the lunge line, send him forward with the whip and be ready to bring his head
toward you. Also, keep your body even with his shoulders. You can walk out
toward his shoulders and "push him out" on the circle. If your body
language is not enough, you can point the whip at his shoulder also. Be firm and
definite about what you want, but also be patient and sure to reward him when he tries.
Q: What suggestions do you have for retraining a 17 year old QH/Arab mare who, while she has very good ground manners, is nervous and often resistant under saddle? She jogs instead of walks, tosses her head, swishes her tail, and frequently tests her rider, cocasionally pitching 'fits' when she doesn't get her way. We've been working with her for 3.5 years and while there's been some improvement, the problems remain. A: Without having more information about what sets
your mare off, I would suggest some exercises which get her focused on you and what you
are going to ask next, rather than what she wants. I would do a series of figures
that get her attention. For example, make a circle, then go straight and circle the
other way. Make a lot of changes of directions, 1/2 circles and serpentine loops.
You might also try some transitions, i.e. walk-halt, walk-trot, etc. If you
are still having problems, I would suggest working with an instructor who could teach you
some bending exercises.
Q: I purchased a 7 year old, 1/2 Arab and 1/2 Quarter horse, that is a real pleasure to ride. He is not scared, he loves water, bridges, rocks, everything. The only problem is that he rides at no less than an extended trot. On Saturday, I took him for a five mile ride, wide trail, and his favorite place to ride was in the trees. My question is two fold. I ride him in a big D snaffle. How do I install brakes and how do I teach him to go around trees? He will walk all day until his first transition up and then he'll only stop at the top of hills. He doesn't aim for trees, but if they are in the path, he ducks his head and proceeds through. A: Your horse needs to learn to respond to the rein and your weight to slow down. I would start in a more controlled area, so he is not only thinking of going, i.e., a ring, field, etc. Start by making walk-halt transitions. You can keep him slightly bend to one side, and use the rein on the other side to ask him to stop. Never pull back with both reins. To ask him to stop, close the rein. If he ignores you, be firm, but don't pull straight back. If you need to, you can lift the rein up slightly. The most important point is that as soon as he answers you, release. If he moves off, repeat again. He needs to learn to stand with a giving rein (you not "holding" him there) until you ask him to move off. At the beginning, move off quickly. You do not want to get him too irritated by making him stand for a long time. Repeat the same thing in trot to walk transitions. I would first trot a few steps, then immediately ask for walk. Walk until he is relaxed then do it again. If you are consistent, he will learn to listen to slow down. Eventually in the trot, if he gets too fast, if you just close the rein, then release, he will learn to hold the pace you have asked for. Start these same exercises gradually out on the trail, i.e., walk-halt. Then trot-walk in a place you feel like you have some control. Also, when you make the transitions, you want to feel yourself sit deeper or with more weight in the saddle, not a feeling of pushing him forward. As for teaching him to go around trees, I am
unclear as to whether it is a "steering problem" or because he is so forward you
are losing control. Maybe you could clarify this.
Q: Is it correct to assume that, at moments, a fair amount of strength is required to get my horse on the bit, round, and between my legs? I am confused on whether you should 'firmly place' the horse in this 'position' or whether it should be 'gradually asked for', increasing the number of strides the horse takes in this 'position'. A: You are right in only expecting a horse to be in the round position for a certain amount of time if he has never been ridden like this before. It will take him time to develop the back and neck muscles to hold this. Though I would suggest shorter work outs, or short sections of work, with many walk breaks where he can relax and stretch out his neck. I do not like to think of needing strength to ride
and keep the horse on the aids. At times, you may need definition so the horse
understands not to pull or run through the aids, but then you immediately reward the horse
with softness and giving. If you feel that you are 'firmly placing' the horse in
this position, it should be with the feel of definition, then softness, not that you are
holding the horse there. If you are 'gradually asking' the horse to be there, it
should be that you are still clear in what you are asking, but only asking the amount the
horse can give, i.e. only asking for a small amount of bend at first when a horse is
stiff. But by 'gradually asking' you do not want to 'drag' or pull the horse into
position - he needs to learn to respond to your aids with lightness. No matter what
aid you give, the horse should learn to hold it, until you give the next signal, without
having to be held there.
Q: I have a two year old filly (born the end of April, 1996), thoroughbred cross. I have no experience with training young horses and would like to know what kinds of things she should be doing now. Also, I am interested in finding a good trainer to work with her (and me) and wonder how to go about this. A: Our two year olds do ground work and manners until they are three. In the spring of their 3 year old year, they begin their training under saddle which can include some round pen work, lunging, and long lining. Once they are safely ridden in the ring, they go outside and for about one year do grow up with light work and a lot of hacking. I would recommend spending time going to your local
barns to see if they break young horses and work with the riders. Ask a lot of
questions and watch as much as you can. If you don't know where to start, try going
to some horse shows and talking to people there who might know of good trainers.
Q: I just bought a 13 year old Morgan. I cannot get him to go out on the trail without another horse along. He flat out refuses. He's perfect when with a buddy. I just found out this has been the case with the past two owners. What can I do? My riding time is limited to weekends. A: We use the "buddy" system for hacking,
so I am afraid I cannot offer a lot of advise in this matter. You might try
contacting John Lyons or another similar trainer to see what they advise. You can
probably reach John Lyons through email. He is linked to our site through his
interview on equerry.com.
Q: I go trail riding in large groups. Whenever the need comes to stop, i.e. crossing water, logs down, etc., my Walker gets very upset. He paws, dances, and even reared a couple of times. What can I do to stop this dangerous behavior? A: Solving problem behavior is not our area of
expertise. You might try contacting John Lyons for advice or you can rent or
purchase his videos and books through a local tack shop. He has an interview on
equerry.com that his site is linked to.
Q: I have an eight year old appy mare with good ground manners. Under saddle she has to be right on the tail of the horse in front or she's not happy. She starts prancing and won't respond to anything. She is ridden in a low port curb. Goes right through the snaffle bit. What bit do you recommend and how do I break her from following so close? I also ride her in a hack and a tie down on her good days, but still having the same problem of following too close. A: I do not have much experience riding with a hack
or tie down. You might try contacting John Lyons
for advise.
Q: I have a spotted saddle horse who tends to be very trotty. I have not been able to get her to gait. She is a green 7 year old, very gentle, but uneducated. Can you suggest how we can learn together and what type of shoeing to make her gait? A: My training is in dressage, so unfortunately I
cannot help you. I recommend calling a saddle horse association - either a breed
association or a saddle horse riding club, which may be able to put you in touch with a
trainer.
Q: I purchased a three year old MFT gelding six weeks ago and found him to be all I had hoped for except for one problem. He will not tolerate any contact from my lower leg or foot. I have spent the past six weeks getting to know him and found that he is very responsive to my commands, fears very little on the trail or at a field trial and even a gun shot gets little more than a head turn. His reactions suggest to me that he has been "cowboy broke" instead of trained and now he is afraid of his rider hurting him. I must also add that he has not shown any intentions of hurting me while riding nor is he afraid of me while I'm on the ground. The farrier is very happy to work on him as he is a real gentleman while being shod. Any suggestions? A: It sounds as if you are doing the right thing as
far as taking your time and gaining his trust. When I have a horse which will not
accept contact from my leg, again, I will take my time. It is very important you
have a very relaxed leg and supple joints. Let your leg rest gently on your horse's
side. Do not increase pressure, but do not take it away either if he gets nervous.
Keep him on a bend to the inside, so if he wants to run away from your leg, you can
keep him on a circle. Once he relaxes you can go straight. (Since he is only
three, try not to ride too many small circles.) Continue to make gentle figures
while you keep your leg resting gently on his side, make a smaller circle if he gets
uptight and wants to run. Once he is comfortable in walk, you can try the same in
trot. When he accepts a light contact from the leg, you can then teach him the aids
for bending.
Q: When starting a young horse, on which "rein" do you start them? Teach them "inside" first and then transfer to "inside leg" to "outside hand"? Or start them that way? A: Once our young horses have learned to move forward from the leg and steer, we begin bending exercises. We first teach the horse to respond to the fingers with a bend. We will teach them to bend to the outside, hold it for a couple of strides, then straighten. Starting with the outside is easier if you have a wall. If not, start with the inside, it is safer since you can circle if the horse wants to run. We then work on an inside bend the same way. Each thigh and leg will independently help with getting the bend. See Jill Hassler's article on proper aids for bending, "John Lyons and Dressage" in Dressage & CT Magazine, Feb 96. The legs will also keep the horse forward. Once the horse learns to respond to the bending
each way - responding to the fingers and legs while staying in balance, you can ride them
with the correct flexion to the inside, and riding them correctly from inside leg,
receiving the energy in the outside rein. You can continue to use the bending
exercises as needed for balance and suppling.
Q: I am a barrel racer and have recently had to sell my pro horse for medical reasons (needed a horse easier on my back). My new barrel horse is wonderful on the pattern, but is a basketcase to ride. She is a former race horse, and has much energy and throttle. I have used some basic dressage training methods to calm her and build trust between us and she has done a complete turn around. However, when doing circles and figure eights, she is very inconsistent. She makes a perfect circle to the left, but always cuts the right one short - even charging around it. All this despite my use of voice, seat, hands, and legs to keep the circle wide. Keep in mind the mare is sound and is able to work cleanly through the barrels with the utmost precision. How do I make perfect circles in both directions when using voice, seat, hands, and legs fails to produce results? A: It sounds as if your horse is stiff to the right and may not be listening to your aids because she cannot balance on the circle. If you have a rail or fence, I would start teaching her a counter-bend (bending her to the outside). I would do this in both directions, but what will really help you with the circle is to have the right hand out. For details on the correct steps for bending, see Jill Hassler's article, "John Lyons and Dressage" in Dressage & CT Magazine, Feb 96. It is very important to follow these steps and for the horse to respond correctly to your fingers and leg aids. Once your horse responds to the bending on a straight line, you can start this on a curve and on circles. You should be able to bend your horse in both directions and stay on your line of travel. Start with larger figures and gradually decrease the size. If the horse falls in or out, use your aids with definition and then immediately soften your aids and go with the horse. If your horse is nervous or too energetic, it is
safer to begin with an inside bend, so if the horse wants to run or misbehave, you can
make a circle. These exercises will improve your horse's balance and
suppleness. As with any new exercise, it is helpful to get the help of an instructor
to make sure you are doing the exercises carefully.
Q: My name is Michael and I am ten years old. We have ten horses and from time to time they don't do what we want them to do. I have been told and have seen some people who believe in punishing horses by hitting them in the back of the head, ears, or neck. Can you please let me know what you think is the best way to punish a horse when he doesn't mind? A: It is important to remember that horses learn better through reward than punishment. Horses in general want to please, so when they do what you want, you must let them know. It is also important to remember you can't wait to reward them until it is perfect. You must reward the small things. when they get confidence in one small thing they do, they will try harder to do the more difficult things. So, you need to break things down into small steps. You must be consistent with the commands or aids you give. I do not believe in hitting the horse in the back of the head, ears, or neck. If I make a correction, it is with an aid. I want the horse to learn. For example, if I am riding a horse and he does not listen to my leg to move forward, I will tap him with the whip right behind my leg. I may need to use the whip with a sharp, definite tap, but as soon as the horse gives the answer I will relax my aids and reward the horse. You can use this same principle for whatever you
are doing with a horse, though your aids will vary. Just keep in mind what you want
the horse to do, how you are going to ask and how you can break it down into steps. Be
consistent and clear with what you ask and give a lot of praise.
Q: What advice can you offer for trying to find a suitable trainer that can help both my horse and I reach our goals? I would love to find a trainer who is actively competing at the advanced levels, but I don't know how to contact them (and am admittedly a bit shy about asking such a competitor for advice/training). Where can I start my search? What criteria should I be concerned with? I want to join up with a trainer who will assist me in going as far as I can. A: Since you would like to train with an active competitor, I would begin my search by going to several events and shows and see whose riding you like. Watch the warm-up area as well as the competition to see how the riders work with the horses. You might also be able to observe some instructors coaching their students, which is very helpful. Note how independent the students are, or do they rely on the coach to tell them everything. You want an instructor who is encouraging to the student. Listen to how the instructor talks to his/her students - does he/she build self-confidence in the rider? You can look in the program to find out names and addresses, then call later to see if a trainer is taking on new students. You might stop by the stabling area to get information, being considerate that a trainer may be busy with the competition or students. Once you have some names of trainers whose riding
you like, call to see if they give instruction and if you may come watch them teach.
Any good instructor should welcome you to watch them teaching. Again, you want an
instructor that builds self-confidence, allows the student to be independent, is clear and
conscise without giving too much information, encourages the student to ask questions, and
follows through to get the results they are asking for. You want an instructor who
really encourages a student to learn and does not want to control the student. As you walk
through the barn, you might also notice the cleanliness of the barn, and whether the
horses look happy. These kinds of overall impressions will tell you about the
overall values and work ethic of a farm. When it comes time to take a lesson,
consider the first lesson an evaluation. You and the instructor are evaluating each
other to see if your personalities match, to see if you feel you can reach your
goals with this instructor, and to see if he/she feels he can help you to reach them.
Q: I need to know if the Dr. Brisol bit is legal at the training and introductory levels of Dressage competition. A: To my knowledge it is legal, but you can be
sure by checking the AHSA rule book.
Q: I am thinking about buying a horse but someone told me that if anything happens to him I will have to give him steroids. What is the purpose of giving steroids to horses? A: To my knowledge, this is not a common practice.
There are different types of steroids, for example, they may be injected into a
joint to reduce inflammation. I recommend that you consult your veterinarian to find
out all the uses of steroids.
Q: My horse is gentle, does not rear, buck, or try to hurt her rider. She is the dominant mare in the pasture. My problem is that she ignores almost all aids, especially the downward aids. She ignores halt, half-halt, drops her inside shoulder and can jack-knife her neck when asking her to make a circle. We are using a french, loose-ring snaffle and I have her in professional training with a very gentle, soft-handed rider who avoids pulling on the mouth at almost all costs. We can't seem to figure out the problem after six months. She is five years old and this is her first real training. Her breeding is unknown, but supposedly Hannoverian/Thoroughbred x. Can you help me with a solution? A: I would first teach her to stop from the rein aids in walk halt transitions. Close the reins to ask her to stop and immediately give so that she stops without you having to hold her. You may need to repeat this several times. She must then listen to your leg aids to go forward. When she can do this, I would start teaching her to flex her neck while staying on a striaght line. You must be able to use your leg aids properly so she does not fall in or out of the line. This way she will begin to learn the proper response to the aids and begin to get balance. For details you might watch the Kyra Kyrkland
Training tapes. I just watched them and found them very clear and simple. They
may give you some ideas.
Q: I am a very inexperienced first time horse owner and every time I try to ride my horse, alone and away from the barn, she throws a fit and makes me scared of her. She crow hops and won't mind and is out of control She is fine if I ride her in the pasture and don't go anywhere. She's also fine if another horse goes with her when riding up the street. How can I control her and get her to leave the pasture by herself? She is a six year old quarter horse. A: I would recommend finding a professional who can come to your barn and help you. This is a bad habit you want to stop as soon as possible so your horse does not become dangerous. She needs to learn basic respect of the aids in the pasture (or place where she is fine) and then work up to going out alone. Since you are inexperienced, she will feel that you are not completely clear in giving the correct aids. A horse will also pick up quickly when a rider is intimidated and take full advantage. Have faith, these problems can be corrected and
are common to an inexperienced rider and young horse.
Q: My six year old running quarter mare is giving me a lot of attitude when I mount her. She refuses to go forward to go on trail and even when walking around the stable she only wants it her way. If I tap her with a whip, she starts to refuse even more, starting to buck and rear up. She only wants a long rein and any good leg pressure, she pins those ears back. If we are going one way and I want to go the other and she refuses, she starts in with head tossing and grinding her teeth, etc. She once had to be laid up for a bowed tendon in a box stall for six months with just handwalking three times a day. After her lay up, we brought her back with stiffness in her hind end. She was doing dressage at the time before the tendon injury. The vet says to just pleasure ride her and take it easy, well that's what I have been doing and she is being a brat. She always had an attitude, but nothing like this in the saddle. I just don't know where to go now. If it wasn't for this problem, she is wonderful on the ground. No spooking, very quiet and level headed. I wish I knew if this was a physical or behavioral problem. It think its behavioral, but who knows. I am going to see a person who works in Natural horsemanship to see what she thinks. I would really appreciate any suggestions you may have in helping me with this. I just want to enjoy my horse. I have owned her for three years and haven't been able to enjoy riding her yet. A: Your idea to go to a person who works in
natural horsemanship is a good one. It sounds like she has gotten into some bad
habits which you need some professional help with. Without actually seeing her, it
is hard to tell where the problems stem from. Just keep in mind that when you are
looking for help, you want someone who is consistent, patient, and breaks things down into
understandable pieces for the horse. You might also try to contact John Lyons and
see if he has any recommendations or knows of someone in the area. These types of
behavioral problems are not our expertise.
Q: I have a friend with a parkhorse style Morgan with great conformation, wonderful knee and hock action, and a nice free shoulder, however, due to his prior training does not take an honest contact with the bit. He either evades by curling behind or above. She has wonderfully quiet hands and sensitive seat. Half-halts go through but only some of the time which is acceptable since he is young. My question is what would you suggest as good exercises to help this horse trust the contact and encourage him to go really forward to the bit? A: Without seeing the horse it is hard to suggest
a good exercise. The horse may be behind the leg (not responding to the leg aids),
tight, or stiff in the back, afraid of the rider's hands - among these possibilities or a
combination. My best advice is to find a trusted professional who can watch the
horse go. In the meantime, continue with quiet hands that go forward with the
movement, but do not let the horse pull through. Check that the horse answers the
leg, and encourage this energy to go forward into a soft hand. You might also check
the November 1998 issue of Dressage Today and see the article "A Strategy for
Reschooling" which addresses this problem.
Q: Is jumping a part of dressage or is dressage something different? A: As far as competitive sports, jumping and dressage are different. Jumping is over fences and has different types, i.e. jumpers (judge how high horse jumps) and hunters (judge the style of the horse over jumps). In dressage competition all work is on the flat. There are many different "tests" you can ride, each one getting progressively more difficult. You are asked to execute a series of figures and are judged on accuracy, rider position and aids, athletic ability of the horse (i.e. gaits), and responsiveness of the horse to the aids. Judges are looking for overall harmony between horse and rider. In a general sense, it can be said that dressage
is the basics to riding. The purpose of basic dressage training is to teach the
horse to be obedient and sensitive to the rider's aids. This also will include
gymnastic exercises to make the horse supple, more agile, and the horse becomes more
enjoyable to ride. These basics can be applied to many (not all) types of
riding, i.e. jumping. The distinction comes as the horse come to a higher level of
dressage and learns more difficult movements that are not required of the other
disciplines.
Q: I am riding a 13 year old mare who has had a lot of experience in Dressage and is basically well trained. She is able to do an extended trot and a shoulder in very well. I haven't been riding for years but I am back in the saddle and becoming stronger and relearning fast what I used to know. She has recently changed owners and hasn't been ridden on a regular basis at all, yet her potential is scary. I ride her for lessons and have noticed that she has begun to pull at the bit and hold it in her teeth. I realize I have the tendency to be a little stiff with her, but I have been giving to her consciously and feel this problem has to do with something else. Could she be angry about having other riders on her other than her previous owner? Could it be the bit? Last week she took the bit in her mouth at a canter and wouldn't stop. I naturally but unnaturally pulled back on her which caused her to keep going even further. I don't know if her new owner knows what she is doing, but I certainly want her to know who "I" am and to know that I know what "I'm" doing when I ride her. Any suggestions? A: I think any of these is a possibility. A horse can definitely feel the difference between riders, and may try to test a new rider. Check that the bit is fitting correctly. You may also try different types and sizes of bits. As far as riding, it is good that you are aware of your
stiffness with her. You may want to practice closing your fingers so she does not
pull through your aids, then immediately relaxing and going with her. Throughout all
of your riding and corrections be aware of having soft joints throughout your arms and the
rest of your body.
Q: What do you consider to be the best way to train with a bosal? Can you start with a bosal directly or do you have to start with a snaffle? A: I do no have any experience with a bosal. We
sometimes ride in a hackamore. I have only ridden in a hackamore on a horse which
has been broken and already used to riding with a bit. I will then just put the
hackamore on in a safe area, i.e., indoor ring. I would suggest looking for more
information on training with a bosal or hackamore.
Q: I have a 17.2 hand Heffer-verian (that should explain it all). He often refuses to respond to the leg at all. He will not even walk off. I have tried the whip, and/or spurs and he will just stand there and kick out, but will not move. There is no underlying medical problem, and we are just doing first to second level. This sometimes happens right out of the stall, and sometimes in the middle of work. I vary his training and location every few days to prevent sourness. This can occur with or without rein contact, so it is not a restriction problem. He is usually good, but sometimes just becomes a mule. Any suggestions? A: If your horse is totally stuck, you may try
going back to some ground work, i.e., on the lunge line. Teach him to go
forward from the voice and lunge whip. When he listens consistently, do
this on his back, maybe with someone on the ground at first. Be consistent
about getting an answer from a light leg, then relaxing the leg as soon as he
goes. Your leg must be relaxed. You can use it quickly and sharply
to get an answer, then don't nag him with it. You can reinforce this with
a tap from the whip. If you don't get a sufficient answer, you may need to
ride him more forward for several strides (if this is safe) to get him more
sensitive to the leg. The Kyra Kyrklund training tapes are a very good
source of information. Her book, as well as many others give wonderful
advice.
Q: I have a five and a half year old Dutch horse who has been a joy to train. He's easy, mellow, and level headed. We are doing classical forward, loosening, suppling rides with transitions, leg yields, stretching, etc. Over the past week, he has suddenly begun kicking out with his right hind leg in response to the left canter depart, each day more violently. Once he did it going right as well. His saddle has recently been refitted, he had a massage this week where he was tight in his right hamstrings. Is it normal for otherwise mellow young horses to suddenly challenge their work, or must one always assume there is pain involved? A: It is wise to first check for pain as
you have done, especially if a horse's work suddenly changes. But it is
not abnormal for a young horse's behavior to change. There could be
several reasons for this, pain being one. Other reasons could be boredom
or an increase in work. As you add more to your horse's program, what was once
fun and easy, becomes more difficult as he has to use his body more correctly.
There could be some muscle soreness, but if there is nothing serious going on, a
rider can help a horse through this with consistency and patience. Five
and a half is still fairly young (though by this time, he should have a good
work ethic) and sometimes you need to think of a young horse as an adolescent
who doesn't always want to do as told. You also want to make sure your
aids are consistent - did anything change - are you tight anywhere which may be
causing a reaction in your horse. These are some things to think about.
Overall I would keep my horse's program varied with hacking, even some jumping
if possible. This way he will continue to have a fresh mellow attitude.
Q: I have a nice, gentle 1/2 Quarter and 1/2 Tennessee gelding. When I ride, he speeds up to a trot or walks fast most of the time. How can I make him walk at a leisurely pace, which is what I want him to do most of the time? A: What you do might depend on the
reason he speeds up. If he is tense or inattentive, I would add things to
keep his attention on you. For example, walk off then add a circle, then go
straight again, and then add a circle the other way. This can help
to relax a horse. You could also add a transition to halt. He needs
to respond to your fingers closing and sitting deep and relaxed in the saddle.
You don't need to make him stand long (vary the length - a walk off before he
decides to), but he should be able to stand without you holding onto the reins
(i.e., give him the signal to stop and release the reins, he shouldn't walk off
until you tell him to). Eventually he will learn to slow down from a
slight squeeze with fingers.
Q: I have a 4-5 year old Quarterhorse and I need a good step by step book in bringing this horse to a well trained horse. I have very little knowledge in training and I want to know what to do and what to use as far as training gear. Any good books out there? A: There are many good books from which
you can gain a lot of valuable knowledge. It is important to remember
though that the information you receive in a book is often general or the best
case scenario. It is sometimes hard to take this step by step with your
horse since there are often so many varying factors from situation to situation.
Consider backing up the valuable information you receive with riding lessons to
make sure you are applying the principles correctly. You also need to
decide what type of riding you enjoy so you know where to start. The
basics of dressage are very important and they can be applied to all types of
riding. Check out the Bookstore at www.equerry.com
for several ideas of books.
Q: Would you please give me advice on what I should do to get my ex thoroughbred race horse to stop bucking while I am cantering? After I canter him awhile, he eventually stops. He usually only does this two or three times each time. A: He may be cold-backed or stiff at the
beginning of your ride. It may help to lunge him a few minutes before
riding, this may help loosen him up. If this problem persists, I would
suggest getting help from an instructor who can watch you to see if there is
some other problem causing this behavior.
Q: I am interested in beginning to show. Can you please describe what steps occur in a showmanship class? What are the horses, as well as the owners, asked to do? A: You can contact the American Horse
Show Association (AHSA) to get information and rules. We train mostly
dressage horses and are not familiar with the rules for showmanship classes.
Q: I have a 15 year old Quarter Horse that is a bit high strung when heading back home while I'm riding her. When I pull on the reins to slow her down, she walks only a few paces then speeds back up to a trot. How do I teach her to calm down and remain at a walk? A: Start by teaching her to pay more
attention during times when she is not so high strung. You might try doing
this at home, before you head out on your ride, or at the beginning of your
ride, when you are going away from home. Teach her to stop when you close the
reins. You should be able to give the reins while she stands still, until you
ask her to go forward. At the beginning, only ask her to stand briefly. She will
begin to learn to slow down just by your closing, then releasing the reins.
Also, when she is high strung, you can teach her to pay attention and relax by
giving her something to think about. For example, on the way home, you
could make a circle, then go straight again, maybe another circle in the other
direction, mixing in some different figures, so she thinks about you, and not
only about getting home.
Q: I recently purchased a 7 year Morgan gelding. He is a 1st level dressage horse that has not been ridden in 1 1/2 years. My problem is that when he is taken out of the paddock or pasture away from the 2 year old Morgan filly, he gets extremely nervous. He will not go anywhere without the filly. My daughter can ride him if I walk along beside with the filly. If we take him for a ride alone, he rears up, walks sideways, and becomes uncontrollable. Any suggestions on how to handle this behavior? A: Try taking him out with another horse
other than the filly. It sounds like he is quite attached to the filly. You
might also consider separating them. You can also get some good books on problem
behavior. Try "Horses Behavin' Badly" by Jim & Lynda McCall. You
can read a review on this book at our Equerry Bookstore and then go to Amazon
Press to place an order for the book.
Q: How can a rider produce a slower lope in a western pleasure horse, i.e., are seat and hands used together? A: As I do not have any experience
with Western riding, I cannot be specific in answering your question. In
dressage riding, we do use our seat and hands together to produce a more
collected canter. In dressage, a squeeze and release with the fingers indicates
to the horse to slow down, while the seat and leg maintain an active canter
rhythm. Depending on the horse, how you use the aids may vary slightly. There
are many building blocks in using the aids correctly, i.e. position, proper
relaxation, etc. It is helpful to have a professional watch you to make sure you
have the correct pieces in order to use your aids correctly.
Q: I bought a 4 year old Tennessee Walker mare last June. The previous owner said she was green broke and needed a little refresher course. She was doing fine. I rode her with my 9 year old stallion and everything went great. Then, I took her on a trail ride with another horse who tried to kick her. Now, every time we get another horse within 6 feet of her back end, she pins her ears back and backs up to kick at the horse. I would love to show her because she has an excellent gait, but I'm afraid she will hurt someone or another horse. Could you suggest how to stop her from doing this? She is in foal and due this May. Could this be the reason for her acting like this? A: It is possible she is behaving this
way due to being in foal. Most likely this is her general attitude. I would
check the following books or contact someone like John Lyons who offers good
advice on dealing with problem behavior such as this. These books can be
ordered from Amazon Press through our own Equerry Bookstore: "Horses
Behavin' Badly: Training Solutions for Problem Behaviors",
"Understanding Your Horse: How To Overcome Common Behavior Problems",
"Natural Horse-man-ship", "Lyons on Horses".
Q: I have an 8 year old American Quarter Horse gelding and use a Tom Thumb snaffle on him. When I take the bit out, he seems in pain and throws his head. Once, he almost fell over backwards. What do you think is wrong? How do I fix this problem before he hurts himself? A: The first two things you should
check are that the bit fits him correctly, i.e., no pinching, and check that he
has no mouth problems which might make him sensitive to the bit. When you take
the bit out, take it very slowly. I have had horses that don't like it dropping
against their teeth. Hold the bridle as you take it out so that there is no
slack between the bit and cheek pieces. You may need to steady his head with one
hand and hold the bridle with the other. You may also try holding a treat in one
hand as you take off the bit.
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